If your camera…

Yesterday I took some photos of Mitchie who was sitting on our sofa, knitting. The only light was our small LED reading light with approximately 5 Watts or so – and since she was moving, I had to raise the sensor sensitivity (or amplification) to about ISO 6400, or even ISO 8000. With settings like these, I ended up with times like 1/10th to 1/15th of a second at an aperture around f/2.8.

Of course the results were not really optimal, so I started looking and comparing, like here. A Sony A7 Mk2 would be at least a stop better than my camera, a Nikon D750 easily two stops, and a Canon 5D Mk3 (an older model, but I wanted to stay roughly in the same price range) would be somewhere in between.

But while dark things in low (or almost no) light are one thing, I remembered that my camera also had the advantage of having built-in sensor stabilization (which that Sony also has), so I started comparing the Nikon’s and Canon’s ISO 12800 with 6400 on the Sony, and with 3200 on mine – which equals out the field considerably.

But ok, two stops lower also means times x 4, which would be counter-productive, at least for moving subjects. So what to do?

Simple: more light, as Goethe is believed to have said. Tried and true:

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Tuna the cat, December 2016

I took this photo of Tuna some minutes ago, while it is dark outside already. So I used my compact flash at 1/4 power on my computer desk, reflected over the wall, and one of my studio strobes at around 1/10th of its maximum output reflected over the opposite wall (behind me in this photo, you see it reflected in her eyes).

The aperture here is f/2.5, but with the really bright flash light I could use the sync time of 1/160th of a second, at ISO 200. Much better than my efforts from yesterday.

So if your camera isn’t as good as others in low (or almost no) light – simply add some. Better, far easier, faster, and also cheaper than to become envious and to think about other and supposedly better cameras…

As always, thanks for reading.

Smokin’ Arno

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Smokin’ Arno

Taken today on our employers’ roof garden using my old and manual OM Zuiko 50mm/1.8 lens fully open at f/1.8.

– raw development (from .orf to .tif) with Olympus Viewer 3 on Windows 10
– added Kodak Portra 160VC film simulation using Google Nik Color Efex Pro 4 on Windows 10 (free download here)
– added Exif title and some tags using RawTherapee 4.2.0 on Debian GNU/Linux 8.x “Jessie”
– developed from .tif to .jpg using RawTherapee 4.2.0 on Debian GNU/Linux 8.x “Jessie”
(- uploaded to Flickr to link to it from here)

Thanks for viewing.

The dark side of piano practice

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The dark side of piano practice

From today. Zuleikha’s hands on her piano, in opposite light from a studio strobe with gridded normal reflector. Cropped square, with black & white conversion from Olympus Viewer 3 (so, like done in-camera). Olympus OM-D E-M10 with 45mm/1.8 lens at f/5.6.

Thanks for viewing.

Don’t underestimate the “kit zoom”

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Zuleikha, December 2016

A few minutes ago, I took this photo of Zuleikha. And I used the lens which came with the Olympus E-PL5, which is the 14-42mm R (Mark 2) “kit zoom” at its longest focal length of 42mm, and wide open at an aperture of f/5.6.

Of course this isn’t as “bitingly” sharp as for instance my 45mm/1.8 would have been when used at these settings. But for portraiture, sharpness isn’t exactly the point. Quite the opposite is true when you’re photographing people who are older than our daughter, and who don’t have as nice and smooth skin as she does have. “Have mercy on me!” was what one of Yousuf Karsh’s clients asked him (forgot which one, but it wasn’t Queen Elizabeth I think. Maybe some American actress).

Still this photo, watched on my full screen size (1200 pixels high) even shows moirée. But that is because the monitor’s dpi interfere with the pixels I caught (4608), and watched 1:1 that moirée is gone.

What’s much more important than which lens you use is that the light is ok – in this case, I used my Yongnuo YN-460II flash off-camera, and bounced over the wall to my right on 1/4 of its maximum power. My exposure was within half a stop, which I had to add in “post production” (in RawTherapee). I also desaturated both the whole image (3 of 100 clicks), and selectively the colour of her shirt (a bit more). Using flash or very high quality permanent light sources help with the colours, and the short exposure times with flash keep the camera’s ISO low. It also helps with the perceived sharpness.

As always, thanks for reading.

… and all of a sudden, everything was white …

As regular readers will probably know already, I go to work early. And I do this mainly because of one reason: to avoid the much heavier traffic later. I have that one when I go home, and once a day is more than enough. 😉

This morning however, people were driving slow even on the motorway, and the nearer I got to my employer’s place, the slower they got. I didn’t really see a reason for that until a few minutes before I arrived: everything was white.

And a bit later, with a bit more light, it looked like this:

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… and all of a sudden, everything was white …

I think only the area north of the river Main was affected – later at home, they were surprised when I showed that photo on my camera’s LCD.

Anyway, it is the time for it now, short before Christmas…

Thanks for reading.