Am I the new Ming Thein?

Hehe – hopefully not! But I just found this:

Screenshot from 2015-11-02 20:46:56

I lit my watch with one compact flash and one studio strobe, and it’s based on Mitchie’s old Lenovo notebook which has that nice glossy black surface.

Thanks for viewing.

Bird food

Sunflower seeds – these are always gone first. Just distributed the rest of what we had:

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Thanks for viewing.

Tuna the cat

With single digit (Celsius) temperatures outside, our cat is enjoying the heated floor:

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Thanks for viewing.

Another full moon image

My first attempts to stack images with Fitswork didn’t work out too well, so I took a bit more time to process another single photo of the moon I took last night:

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This time I let it in the original 4:3 full frame of my Olympus E-PL5 camera, which was put into prime focus of my Sky-Watcher 150/750P Newtonian telescope (which means: no lens attached).

This one’s for my brother Willi, who wants to make a 16:9 crop to use it as a background for his computer screen.

Update, one day later: here’s another version of the same image. While the first one was too soft and dull, the second was a bit too bright and contrasty, and also a bit oversharpened. So this is my final compromise – a better moon photo will follow when the sky clears up, and the moon is a bit older and not full anymore:

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See also in the German-speaking Astrotreff forum and in the Balkonauten Community. Compared to what these guys & gals show, mine are the first baby steps only…

Thanks for viewing.

Preparations

I don’t know if the weather will be good for it today, but I’ll try to get a moon picture using my telescope. This is like I took star pictures last time, with the camera riding piggyback on a (much bigger) ‘scope:

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And this is an in-between portrait of Tuna the cat. Has nothing to do with the rest of the article:

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A telescope has to cool down to the outside temperature before you can actually use it. So I brought it outside at around 4:30pm, and pointed the mount to the North (you can see a mark “N”), and the telescope roughly South-Southwest, where I expect the moon to show up short after the evening news or so:

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As you can see, my mount doesn’t have motors yet to “track the stars”. But that won’t matter much for the moon, which is bright enough for really short exposures. And having an equatorial mount still helps, because you can “follow the moon” (or the stars, with counter-acting on Earth rotation) with adjusting just one axis if you get your polar setup accurate enough.

And this time, the camera will “look through” the telescope, or it will be used in the telescope’s “prime focus”, as astronomers and astro-photographers say. Which means that there’s no leans attached to neither the camera nor the ‘scope, the light path is coming in via the two mirrors of a Newtonian telescope, and light will be hitting the sensor directly, with no other glass (except the two mirrors) involved.

This is how it looks when an Olympus E-PL5 Micro Four Thirds camera is attached in prime focus of a telescope like my Sky-Watcher 150/750P:

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So you’ll have to focus the scope, not the camera. Having a dual speed focuser would further help with precision, like using a Bahtinov mask (in front of the scope, you’d need it once just for focusing) would. But if today’s moon will actually show up through clouds and/or haze, I’ll try with just enlarging the photo on the camera’s rear screen. That will have to do for now.

The sun will be setting real soon now, so let’s see if I can get a good one (or maybe several ones to stack them later). As you see, sometimes photography demands a bit planning before it actually happens.

Thanks for reading.

P.S.: not the weather, like I thought. Clouds were coming in from the West or Northwest, and fast. I saw the moon around the corner, but it looked very “milky” already. So after the evening news I took the telescope back in. Moon photos will follow on another day. That’s like it goes…

Of stars, airplanes, light pollution, and the cold…

Yesterday I tried to collimate my telescope but ran into problems. So I asked Mirko Boucsein from the local observatory if he’d like to help me, and he suggested to meet me in Darmstadt.

After successfully collimating the telescope (which is a matter of minutes once you’ll get the right tools and the hang of it) I asked him if I could try some “Live Composites” using my Olympus E-M10 camera. “Live Composite” is a term invented by Olympus which does some stacking in-camera, taking one base image and then only adding lights (plus one dark frame in the end to compensate for noise). Mirko wanted to get some photos himself using the observatory’s biggest telescope, and accepted to have my camera mounted piggyback to the big tube and mount.

First he pointed the scope to Deneb, and the North America Nebula (NGC 7000), and my camera took 14 photos (of 60 seconds each at ISO 200 and f/2) which resulted in one raw file and one jpg:

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After doing that he wanted to get some long exposure shots of NGC 6946, better known as the Fireworks Galaxy. So he programmed that into the mount’s GoTo system, and the big scope went straight up to our zenith (the point right over our heads) to track that one. Here I took 45 exposures of 60 seconds each, which the camera again stacked into just one raw and jpg file:

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You don’t see the nebula and the galaxy in my photos which I took with the Panasonic Leica 25mm/1.4 lens. First this is a very wide angle, and those nebulae and galaxies are small (in fact they’re huge of course, but I mean a small angle in my photos here). Plus they are also faint, and since I didn’t use any filter against the light pollution (you clearly see Darmstadt city lights in the second photo), I had no chance to get anything like that. Plus my camera isn’t modified to allow h-alpha and other wavelengths to even reach its sensor.

What you do see in both images were airplanes flying straight through my frame. This you can’t get rid of if you let the camera do all the stacking “live”, while taking the image – you’re much better off with manual stacking if you want to avoid those.

But still – these were my first two astrophotos using a tracking mount which was even guided by a third camera, and PHD on Mirko’s Windows laptop. So it doesn’t matter if your exposure time will be 14 or 45 minutes like in my examples, or even hours (and some 10 hours over several days using different filters is pretty standard procedure in astrophotography) – your stars will be nice and round and pinpoint sharp if you use a Bahtinov mask to focus (which Mirko did, but we didn’t have one the size of my small lens).

You’ll need all of that stuff, plus something more: you’ll need to be able to stand the cold, and the wind. I was really feeling cold when I got home, and that was early in the evening (short before 10pm). Imagine having to stay there for several hours more – who said that stuff would be easy?

Anyway. Now I have my scope laser-collimated, and one more interesting experience as well. Thanks again to Mirko, whom I hope to see again soon.

Thanks for reading.

P.S.: this was also a test inspired by this thread in a German astronomers’ forum, to see if my Olympus camera can do something like an Atik Infinity – and no, not out of the box. Haven’t tried it through a telescope yet, but I surely won’t get any h-alpha colours on it.