Fresh “sensors”

Today we went for a walk in Darmstadt, where I also took some photos like this one for instance:

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Grand Duke Ludwig IV. on horse with doves, Darmstadt 2016

We got some additional SD cards for all of us for the upcoming summer holidays, but what’s more interesting for me is this:

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TRI-X 400 film

Fuji tries to emulate the look of their own Neopan Acros 100 black & white negative film in their newest digital camera (the X-Pro2), but about everyone else is trying to emulate this one here, Kodak Tri-X.

Since around 1940 this was the standard film for many professional news reporters and artists.

What comes close – I’ve seen direct comparisons – is the Leica Monochrom. Sadly, I currently don’t have some 8000€ for that camera body plus at least half as much for a nice 50mm Summilux lens, so for me the original film in my Olympus OM-2n has to do.

Currently my camera is still loaded with some DM “Paradies” ISO 200 colour negative film (which is made in the USA, so it must be Kodak as well), but I can hardly wait to see some resulting photos taken with this 400TX, as it is also called.

And unlike the mentioned Leica Monochrom, I can simply swap my “sensor” from black & white to colour and back… 😉 I could even have a look at the original Neopan Acros 100, or – like when I was much younger – at Ilford HP5 or FP4 or whatever.

Isn’t choice wonderful? The old film camera, nowadays often called “analog” is more modern (because modular) than anything except super expensive medium format systems. And it’s easier to use than even a modern digital Fuji camera, the only ones which really try to get what the old ones all had.

Thanks for reading.

Some stars, and a planet

Today – or, rather, yesterday (because it’s way past midnight as I write this) – I played around with Deep Sky Stacker a bit. That’s a free software which helps reducing noise and also with taming our atmosphere when photographing the night sky.

So I’ve made a stack from 11 images out of my Olympus camera, each shot with 1 second exposure at ISO 1600 with the aperture of the Panasonic Leica lens fully open at f/1.4. In Windows 10 the program always stopped with the remark that I hadn’t enough memory, tho I was running it on bare metal with 16GB available. So I had to revert to a virtual Windows 7 machine with much less memory (and only 2 of the 4 processor cores), but that worked.

Didn’t care for the trees in the foreground, they would be blurry anyway (open aperture and a bit wind), so this is how the stack looks:

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Castor, Pollux, and about 2,000 other visible stars, Mörfelden-Walldorf 2016

After fighting with the software to give me this result, I went out again for another smoke, and saw Jupiter. Ok – too late to get out the telescope (these things have to cool down for at least half an hour before you can actually start using them), so with the same 25mm standard lens (50mm-equivalent on film), I made a photo of our neighbour planet standing right above the neighbour house:

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Jupiter, Mörfelden-Walldorf 2016

I could get out the scope later today, tho a short 750mm Newtonian isn’t the exactly right one for planets – for these you need magnification, which means more focal length. But ok, with my “crop” sensor this is again equivalent to 1500mm on film (or what they now call “full frame” cameras), so let’s see what I can get. If we have good weather again of course…

Ok; it’s 4 degrees (C), and 3 o’clock. Nighty night…

Thanks for reading.

P.S: if you want to see some more stars, here you go. Taken October last year on the back of the largest telescope of our local observatory (Volkssternwarte Darmstadt):

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Riding piggyback on the observatory’s largest telescope to see the stars…

This is also an image stack, but it was done in-camera while it took about 50 exposures of 1 minute each.

My own telescope here at home isn’t motorized yet, so the best I could get until now with the camera actually “looking through” it was a 21-image stack of the moon:

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Moon, stacked from 21 images

I did this on November 25th of last year, and I’m still waiting to repeat it to get more detail.

Thanks again for reading, and for viewing.

Two photos from today

One outside, one inside:

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Family photo

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Tuna the cat on the piano bench in low light, Mörfelden-Walldorf 2016

Thanks for viewing.

Agfa APX 100

Got my black & white film back from the drugstore, and I “scanned” some of them using my E-M10 with the 50mm macro lens and a slide duplicator. So here are some of that roll:

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The obligatory “selfie” in a mirror, film, Frankfurt 2016

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Zuleikha, film, Mörfelden-Walldorf 2016

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Zuleikha, film, Mörfelden-Walldorf 2016

And for those of you who maybe want to emulate the tones of this film, here’s help:

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X-Rite ColorChecker on Agfa APX 100 b&w film

With all its imperfections and hassle during “post processing”, I still think we would lose something should film production ever be stopped. Until then, this is available for 3.45€ at your local DM drugstore. Less than half of what you would pay for Tri-X or Acros or any other brand, except of course if you buy these in big amounts.

Recommended, just like Agfa Precisa CT 100 colour slide film (which costs about 12€ for two rolls). They also have Kodak Gold 200 (8€ for 3 films), and I only mention them here because they’re just around your corner.

Thanks for viewing.

P.S.: just for comparison, here’s a digital b&w almost like out of camera:

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Zuleikha, Mörfelden-Walldorf 2016

I’ve put this here after reading an article of Anthony Shaughnessy’s about b&w conversion. It’s no film look of course – you can see that above – but nevertheless it’s a quite nice conversion IMHO. For Lightroom users, there’s always the now free Nik collection of course…

Thanks again for reading.

A passport photo

Not perfect, but accepted as her new passport photo:

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Zuleikha, passport photo, Mörfelden-Walldorf 2016

You can get 6 “biometric” passport photos at the local drugstore for about 7€, or 4 for around double the price at your local photographer’s. We’ve paid 27 Cents for 8 prints in passport size, so yes, one can do it oneself. The background should be a bit lighter if possible, and the lighting not too dramatic.

Anyway. Did my first official passport photo today.

P.S.: In the evening, we also made a real portrait, with the background – a reflector – turned to Zuleikha’s favourite golden side. First one for the white balance:

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– and then the real portrait:

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Portrait of Zuleikha, Mörfelden-Walldorf 2016

Thanks for viewing.

From idea to execution: macro lenses

Mitchie has my macro lens since a while, since she likes to take close-up photos of the flowers she planted, and also other stuff. My macro lens is the Zuiko Digital 50mm 1:2 Macro ED lens from my Olympus Four Thirds DSLR; the best lens I ever had for that system. And with Mitchie’s MMF-2 adapter it can also be used on the newer Micro Four Thirds cameras, retaining autofocus.

I had bought her an older and manual OM 50mm 1:3.5 Auto-Macro lens, also with adapter, but recently I borrowed that to use it on my OM-2n film camera, the system to which it originally belongs.

Before giving it back to her, my view fell onto her camera on our living room coffee table, so I decided to mount it onto my OM-D E-M10 camera, and with her macro lens on my camera I’d take a photo of my macro lens on her camera.

Thought and done. In the dim LED reading light I had to expose for 60 seconds, and that looked like this:

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Hm. I didn’t really like the colours, so off they went with emulating a Fuji Neopan Acros 100 film. But I still wasn’t very happy with this picture. First there was that dust which I should have cleaned, but more important was the question what I wanted to show – my original idea had been “my lens on her camera” – of which you don’t see much here.

Ok. I moved to our dining room area, where I have one of my studio strobes on a large tripod with boom (and counter weight) permanently set up. I dusted off my lens and Mitchie’s camera a bit, and also got my second studio strobe as the main light, bounced off the wall behind me. With a black light blocker / reflector as the background, and some settings on the lights (I wanted to use f/8 on Mitchie’s macro lens), I ended up with this:

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Et voilà – My macro lens on Mitchie’s camera – photographed with her macro lens on my camera.

From first idea to final result: about 1 hour. The important thing is to not give up if the first attempt wasn’t what you had in mind.

Oh, by the way: these photos aren’t sharpened; I almost never do that. That old OM Zuiko macro lens has a very nice and kind of “natural” looking sharpness, not “clinically” perfect like my digital or the newer 60mm Micro Four Thirds macro lenses, but – yes, I’d call it pleasing.

And manually focusing an old analog macro lens like this one is a breeze on newer digital cameras, especially if you enlarge the photo in your viewfinder or on the rear display. It’s actually easier to do than with more modern autofocus lenses because these focus in steps. And these steps might be as small as they are, but they’re far from being analog. Much easier and faster with a real focus ring like on that old lens. I love it.

Thanks for viewing and reading.

A few photos from a common Sunday walk

At the moment the temperatures are very nice, so after breakfast I suggested to go for a walk. Mitchie took her camera with my 50mm macro lens to get close-ups of the cherry blossoms, so I decided to go a bit wider and to get some more context within my frames. So I took the E-PL5 as well, and set my 14-42mm zoom lens to 17mm, which equals an angle of view of about 35mm on a 24x36mm film camera. The following photos were all taken with that focal length:

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Zuleikha and Tuna, Mörfelden-Walldorf 2016

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Zuleikha and Tuna, Mörfelden-Walldorf 2016

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Cherry blossom, Mörfelden-Walldorf 2016

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A ruin and a bird, Mörfelden-Walldorf 2016

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Property of National Geographic?

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Read this later…

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Spring, finally

Thanks for viewing.

P.S.: Tuna stayed out at least 2 hours more than us. Then she came back, and after the usual smooch greetings, she laid down in her chair to rest a bit. I took this portrait of hers with my E-M10 and the 25mm lens at f/2:

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Tuna the cat, back home after her Sunday walk, Mörfelden-Walldorf 2016

E-M10 vs. D810 (vs. film)

In the middle of March, there was the Luminale (German Wikipedia page here; an English one doesn’t exist (yet)) festival in Frankfurt, which is some kind of light festival set up each 2 years. My colleague Basti (Bastian) wanted to see it and take some photos, so he did something here very rarely does: he brought his Nikon D810 camera, along with some lenses.

I wanted to compare it to my Micro Four Thirds camera since a while, so when Basti asked me which lens I’d like to have on it, I said: “the fifty?”, because that’s what I have as well – my Panasonic Leica DG Summilux 25mm/1.4 has about the same angle of view like his Nikkor 50mm/1.4G lens.

So I took his and my cameras (I also had my OM-2n film camera with its OM Zuiko 50mm/1.4 with me, loaded with Agfa Precisa CT100 colour slide film), and within a few minutes only I did what I normally do, which is take pictures of people – him in this case. Yesterday I finally asked him whether I could use and show these pictures for writing about my short experience with all of these cameras, and he kindly allowed it. Thanks again Basti, both for letting me handle your camera, and for showing your photos here.

Since I don’t have Lightroom or Photoshop which he is normally using, I took the raw files from his and my cameras and converted them using the free and open source RawTherapee raw converter on my Linux machine. I switched the results to black & white and simply pressed the “Auto” button in that program to get about the same exposure levels on both. The cameras were set to aperture priority and f/4, since I wanted to give both lenses a bit of a stop-down quality for better results. His camera chose ISO800 with 1/50th of a second (no image stabilization with that lens), mine used ISO1250 for 1/80th of a second (in-camera image stabilization (IBIS) with every lens attached). I also cropped the image out of my camera to the 3:2 format which his (and my film camera) would produce.

The expected outcome? Well his should have less depth of field with using f/4 on both a 50mm vs. a 25mm lens, but the rest? I was very exited to see these results, so without any further ado, here they are:

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Basti, with my Olympus OM-D E-M10

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Basti, with his Nikon D810

And, for comparison, the one of my film camera (1/8th of a second hand-held with ASA100 film and no stabilization), also converted to black & white for comparison:

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Basti at work, film, Frankfurt 2016

Looking at the digital cameras, what do I see? Well my first reaction was something like: “Wow, very similar” (with the exception of the difference in depth of field of course, should have taken one more with my camera set to f/2 to get closer to what his camera produced). Second thought was that I drink too much coffee – none of the photos are “critically sharp” as some bloggers would say after looking at them at 100 or more percent. The IBIS in my camera helped a bit with that.

But the real differences show up as soon as you start to manipulate some of the settings in a raw converter (like the “sliders” in Lightroom) – his camera has lots more reserves for that of course, and the “noise floor” of his camera is also better than the one of mine, which was to be expected as well.

The handling of that Nikon (“full frame” as they say these days) together with the “nifty fifty” 50mm/1.4G is wonderful. You have some real camera in your hand, which is just what my brother Willi would want – these Micro Four Thirds “Pens” and OM-D cameras he finds “fiddly”, and his argument has something to consider – you have to be careful not to press any buttons when handling mine, which isn’t that much of a problem with Basti’s Nikon.

And tho his camera still has one of these flipping mirrors like my OM-2n, the shutter sound of that Nikon is also fantastic – very muted but reassuring, a bit less noise than my OM-D and lots less noise then the film camera makes.

Viewfinders? Hm. Some love optical through-the-lens viewfinders, others prefer electronic ones nowadays, because they show equally big pictures like those “full framers”, but with more information if you want/need it. I’d say that all of them are very good, and if I had to choose I’d probably take one like the Olympus VF-4 (which Mitchie has, it’s the same bigger picture viewfinder which is also used in all newer Olympus cameras (E-M1, E-M5 Mk2, E-M10 Mk2)) in favour of an analog one like the very good ones in my OM-2n or in Bastis D810. But like I wrote already, that is a matter of personal choice, experience, and opinions, and I won’t get into any religious wars about these. Some even love rangefinders…

Talking about those pictures a bit more, I love the result out of Basti’s camera, not only because it’s the better one where he is smiling (he was really working while I played around). The quality is wonderful, as is his 50mm lens, so I’d love to have one of these.

Both pictures are not like film, not even like colour slide film converted to black & white after “scanning”. I’d love to also see a direct comparison between some real silver halide films like Kodak Tri-X, Ilford HP5, and Fuji Neopan Acros 100 (or even Delta 3200) against digital cameras like Basti’s, mine, or even a Leica Monochrom, a Fuji X-Pro2, or the new Olympus Pen-F, all of which try to emulate the look of film digitally.

But I’m no camera tester, so other people who run blogs for mainly that purpose will have to help with these. Just read a good camera review of the Fuji X-Pro2 mentioned above from Jordan Steele, where he says that for digital, these ones come probably closest to a film look, especially in black & white. So if you love the look of film as much as I do, but want the way bigger convenience of digital output directly into your computers, you should probably have a look at those cameras (they’re all of different sizes and price segments, with the mentioned Leica costing more than double or almost triple of a D810, lenses not even considered).

So, for me – is that camera of Basti’s worth the triple amount of cash compared to mine? Well if I had the money, in an instant – like I’d also love to have a Leica with at least the 50mm Summilux if I could ever spend that much.

Realistically, one would have to look for alternatives if it’s the “full frame look” one is after. A Nikon D610, a Canon 6D, or a Sony A7 are alternatives which start at even under 1000€ now (for the older and original Sony A7). Spending about 1500€ for a camera and lens would get you one of these, so recommending anything smaller for about the same amount (like the mentioned Fuji or Olympus) would mean that you’re more a specialist who wants exactly what these offer.

For me, and for the time being, I am more than happy with what I have. I’ve even ordered some prints for both Basti and myself, and from what I see the result of his camera is fantastic in 30x45cm – but so is the output of mine in 30x40cm for its original 4:3 format.

So, just a quick & dirty comparison of two very good digital cameras, with some film thrown in just for the fun of it.

As always, thanks for reading. And also thanks again to my colleague Basti.

A few photos on film

Got back my first film from the drugstore today, and I “scanned” some of those slides using my digital camera and a slide duplicator. So here are a few, all made with my Olympus OM-2n and its 50mm/1.4 lens, mostly around f/4 or thereabouts:

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Mitchies flowers, film, 2016

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X-Rite ColorChecker, film, 2016

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Mitchie’s camera, film, 2016

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Basti at work, film, Frankfurt 2016

I think the last one was taken with f/2.8, and at around 1/8th of a second hand-held, with no image stabilization. I mention this because I was comparing some different cameras, both digital and analog. But that’s a story for another article. Thanks to my colleague Basti who allowed me to show his pictures for this purpose.

The film I used here was Agfa Precisa CT100 colour slide film, already expired since a short time.

Thanks for viewing.

Dr. Strangelove…

Today at work we had a last cigarette break, when I saw two girls coming from the opposite office building. Before they headed to the bus stop, each of them took a very slim camera device (almost looked like phones!), and held it at arms length, carefully framing for the bank buildings in the background.

They seemed to be very happy with what they’ve got, so I thought I had to try that technique myself. And so, while joining my colleagues upstairs in the lift, I tried what I just saw:

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Dr. Strangelove, or: How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Hold the Camera Correctly

Wow – that worked! I even look almost as good as Wallace!

I was so happy with my newly found technique that I wanted to apply it as soon as I got home again, so I tried to take Zuleikha’s portrait. But strangely, this time the outcome wasn’t what I really expected:

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Hmmm – that doesn’t look like my daughter…

I shook my head in disbelief, and said: “Seems like I can never again take your portrait!”. But fortunately our daughter is much smarter than me, and she suggested to simply stand behind her, and to try again. So this is what I did:

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Aaahh – THAT’s how it works!

Wow, cool! Sure, as a photographer you have to respect and to stand behind your models in any way you can, so I’m glad this worked out so well. Will keep this in mind for future portrait sessions!

And what did we learn from this? Well, maybe that we shouldn’t take ourselves too seriously? Have some fun, and make your people laugh…

Thanks for reading.